I saw these and thought them so nice I had to share them.This one is the seasons sundial. The link shows all of them lower on the page too. http://www.gardenguides.com/decor/dialseasoncycle.htm
I have a rose bush that I planted this past spring. It's the first rose that I've had and now have a question that I know that someone here can answer. It had two blooms that have come and gone already. Do I snip off the dead heads now or wait? Thanks in advance.
does anyone know of a way to deal with these horrible beetles? i will not do any poisons as there are a number of honeybees, etc, visiting my two container gardens. i know for next year to avoid yellow flowers, esp the yellow sunflowers they seem to thrive upon(they won't go near the chocolate cherry sunflowers) but they've got me concerned this year. lots of leaves and flowers getting chewed up out there. had thought of praying mantids but again that seems extreme as they'll eat anything that moves....
( Celtic Folklore Regarding Herbs & PlantsCollapse )
Each garden is a miniature ecosystem. The creatures within it determine what thrives, survives, deteriorates or dies.
Any rash action taken by the gardener may affect that all important equilibrium between the garden’s pests and guests.
The wildlife gardener needs to adopt a ‘Live and let live’ philosophy which means allowing a balance of good and bad insects to exist for their mutual benefit.
Spraying with chemicals ultimately does more damage than good. It creates an imbalance where beneficial predatory insects starve because their food source is diminished.
It is best to grow as wide a range of plants as possible to attract both beneficial predators and the undesirable pests on which they live.
Ladybird beetles are invaluable in the garden, both adult and larvae feed on destructive pests such as aphids, thrips, mealy bugs and mites. Some ladybirds even feed on powdery mildew fungal spores. Another ‘must-have’ insect is the lacewing, which also offers the wildlife gardener two for the price of one, as once again both the adult and ferocious looking larvae eat aphids, mites, leafhoppers and scale insects.
The song thrush consumes vast quantities of garden snails. So give them a helping hand by placing a flat stone in the flower border, which they can use as an anvil to smash the shell.
Many garden pests are attracted by scent. Planting strong smelling herbs may repel them. Even if they don’t deter them they may encourage biological control in the form of attracting predators such as the hoverfly whose larvae eat up to 50 aphids a day!
The marigold has several uses around the garden. It attracts the adult hoverfly. Its roots emit a substance which repels the potato root eelworm and some other types of nematode worms.
A rough and ready rule for deciding if a non flying creature is a friend or foe is ‘does it move quickly?’ If so, it is likely to be a predator and therefore a gardener’s friend. Whereas if it is slow moving, it is probably a plant eater and could be a nuisance in the garden.
Man has helped to create the problem of garden pests. In the wild these animals are not a problem. The creatures are not presented with row upon row of delicious plants to eat. In the wild the plants are all dispersed and the insect will have to search around for long periods looking for another food plant. Many of them will starve before they find another suitable plant or they may be discovered by a predator and eaten. In the garden the adult will lay its eggs on a suitable plant for the young to eat. When they have consumed that they will move along the row to the next plant. Because it doesn’t have to travel far there is less chance of it being discovered and eaten by predators. Therefore they start to thrive.
By autumn many of the gardener’s allies are looking for places to spend the winter. Being overtidy in the garden tends to remove many of the hibernation sites of these pest predators. So try to leave as much of the garden undisturbed as possible.
Bibble-bugs, Tiggy-hogs and fairy’s pigs are all local names for the woodlice. These creatures are important in the breakdown of plant material. By eating decaying matter they help to return nutrients to the soil. However they are not always appreciated by the gardener due to their taste for seedlings.
The adult hoverfly with its black and yellow stripes mimics the wasp but is completely harmless and should be encouraged into the garden. The maggot-like larvae munches aphids by the dozen before emerging as an adult.
Plants to attract hoverflies:Phacelia tancetifoliaPoached egg plantMichaelmas DaisySedum spectabileCandytuft
The social wasp, which is not everyone's favourite at picnics is of great use around the garden. The grubs of the wasp are fed almost entirely on caterpillars and other insects. By the end of the summer a nest may have consumed up to 250,000 insects.
Most wildlife gardeners already know of the benefits of leaving a patch of nettles in a sunny spot for butterfly larvae to feed on. However now there is another reason, as it seems that they are a favoured food of snails. They congregate around the nettles, thus acting as a decoy away from those prized vegetables and plants.
A pile of logs in a shady corner makes a good home for many of the garden’s welcome guests. Frogs, toads, shrews, hedgehogs, ground beetles, centipedes and rove beetles will all use a log pile for a home. Site the log pile in an area that is shady for most of the day with cover nearby. Try to use a mixture of different types of woods, 15–25cm in diameter and preferably with the bark still on. Avoid treated wood.
Hello! My name is Jen and I would like to be a part of this community. I am not a pagan, per-say, more of an agnostic with a few theories. However, I would like my garden to be natural, welcoming to local wildlife, and useful.At the moment, I don't have a garden at all. I'm on a second floor apartment overtop of a forrestry headquarters in an industrial zone. The view is horrid. Lucky for me, the balcony is quite big and I plan on having a potted garden. So far I am growing morning glory from seeds and have some lemon balm and blue brachycome that I got from wal-mart. Please don't be mad at me for buying from wal-mart. It's more of a resuce mission when I get anything living from that place.I was wondering if anyone here knows of plants that would naturally discurage hornets and wasps from nesting around the balcony. Honeybees are lovely, but paper wasps and yellowjackets scare me. I hate sprays and I don't want to use a trap that lures them in and drowns the poor things. I know it's a longshot, but I'm hopeful.
Gunn (1924) listed 49 plants as hosts in South Africa:
Vegetables: cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, celery, bean, beet, brussels sprouts, lettuce, mangel, onion, peas, radish, tomato, and turnips.
Cereals: barley, oats, and wheat.
Flowers: alyssum, antirrhinum, aster, balsam, carnation, candytuft, chrysanthemum, dianthus, dahlia, delphinium, hollyhock, larkspur, lilies, marguerite, mignonette, nasturtium, pansy, pentstemon, petunia, phlox, stock, sweet-pea, verbena, and zinnia.
Trees: apple, apricot, citrus, peach, and plum. Shrubs: hibiscus, magnolia, and rose.
Habitat reduction will aid in control. Remove anything snails may hide under: boards, bags, brush and debris. During the night, place a board on the ground near damaged plants. Elevate the board with four stones placed under the corners. The snails will take shelter under the board in the morning and can be removed and then destroyed then by dropping into a jar filled with water and a little rubbing alcohol. Some birds, especially ducks, will feed on these snails. (Garofalo 2001).
Barriers of diatomaceous earth, sand or ashes provide only temporary control. With a beer trap the goal is to trap and drown snails and slugs in a shallow dish with beer placed slightly below grade so that the lip of the dish is even with the soil. However, this does not provide reliable control (Bradley 1999).
Insect Management Guide for landscape plantsInsect Management Guide for vegetablesInsect Management Guide for citrusInsect Management Guide for fruit Organic WarfareAn organic solution is the make beer traps(this also works on slugs). Bury shallow dishes in the soil near the host plants to the top of the dish. Using a dark beer fill the dish up to 1/8-1/4" from the top. The snails/slugs fall in and drown. This also works with salt water intead of beer(I hate wasting a good dark brew).Keep slug pokers stuck around the garden at random. Meet your enemy, one on one... Your weapon is at hand, impale them!
Fill a small bowl with stale beer. Put it in the areas where the slugs are active. Stale beer attracts the slugs and they drown. You may also use grape juice or a tea made from yeast, honey and water.
An early morning stroll around the garden, salt shaker in hand will often result in many casualties for the bad guys.
Destroy any and ALL slug eggs you find!
Bait and destroy tactics work. Set a pile of slightly dampened dry dog food in an area frequented by slugs. In the morning and evening visit the feeding station a few times.... slug poker in hand!
Hello, I'm Jayden and new to the community, but then again, that's obvious. I'm trying to find a natural pesticide for my mini-garden. I heard that citrus works really well, but I'm not too sure about it. Help please?
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